I realised over Christmas that I, shamefully, haven’t updated this blog since the summer. The months leading up to December are always busy: writing, pitching, writing and some actual travelling. In fact, as I think back, the months went by so fast they feel like a blur already.
I escaped to Zermatt one weekend at the end of September for the ‘Swiss Winter Launch’, and ended up spending most of the time marvelling at my favourite mountain in Alps. It was my first visit to the resort, and despite not actually skiing, I can see why it draws people back time and time again. Autumn in the Alps is a season overlooked: the trees are golden and the late-summer sun lights the mountains softly. The balmy summer evenings might have long gone, but travelling up the cog railway at sunset is certainly a treat. It’s unusual for me to make such an early visit to a ski resort, but I’d jump at any opportunity to visit the Alps in autumn again.
Back in the UK autumn wasn’t so golden, the nights were drawing in and soon enough the clocks went back. And for a ski writer the real countdown to winter begins. The wait wasn’t long and two weeks later I was carving on the pistes of Ischgl, making my first turns of winter. I’d travelled to the resort for the opening weekend of the season – a big affair for the resort dubbed “the party capital of the Alps”. The majority of resorts in the Alps open without a scene, however, some prefer to open with a bang. Ischgl is certainly one of those, famed for its blowout all-singing, all-dancing opening week, climaxing with the infamous Top of the Mountain concert, which in the past has attracted the likes of Katy Perry, Elton John, Rihanna and Kylie, to name but a few.
This season was no different and resort opened in its usual exuberant style, with a series of concerts headlined by the Scorpions, who cheerily performed in temperatures of -10C to a 13,000-strong crowd. The wrinkly, but still splendidly energetic, German rock band – famed for their song Wind of Change – might not have troubled the UK charts much since 1991, when they were No.2, but they’re still massive in Germany and Scandinavia.
Pinning so much on the first week of the season is a big gamble, just last year the resort was forced to spend over €1m on artificial snow in order to ensure the ski area opened on time. However, this year the situation is poles apart: generous snowfalls in the early autumn left many high-altitude European resorts with oodles of snow, bolstered further by fantastic snowfalls at the beginning of December. In fact, this season, for the opening weekend, Ischgl had more kilometres of pistes open than any other resort in the world.
Next it was off to the glitzy resort of Val d’Isère to review the plush Chardon Mountain Lodge chalets. I must admit I’m not a chalet fan: in my (short) lifetime I’ve probably had one too many bad experiences – illnesses passed around the whole building, grimy kitchens, rude and bone idle staff – so when the company invited me to stay I did ponder on my answer for a few moments.
Who knows why I did as sitting here now it’s nigh on impossible to fault any aspect of the chalet or the service. But considering the likes of Paul McCartney and co have checked in over the years it’s not that surprising. Built in traditional Savoie style, there is nothing more welcoming than returning after a day on the slopes to homemade tea and cake by the roaring fire.
I’d last visited Val d’Isère when I was just learning to ski, so it was interesting to return and see what’s changed during the intervening years. Some things definitely haven’t: the resort is still full of Brits, and the skiing is still legendary. The resort certainly has a reputation that precedes it – some would say a good one, whilst, others may feel slightly differently… it’s an acquired taste.
Another whistle-stop trip back to the UK before it was off to another Val, this time Val Thorens, one of the resorts in the vast 3 Valleys – the largest ski area in the world. The resort was playing host to the Ski Cross World Cup (which doubled up as an Olympic qualifier event for the Sochi 2014 winter Olympic games). Our best hope for 2014 is Emily Sarsfield, an ex Alpine ski racer, and also an ex-race coach of mine.
It’s dangerous, adrenaline fuelled and quite the spectator sport. The athletes are fearless and not afraid to put up a fight. The sport was inaugurated back in the 90s, before making its first appearance at the Winter X Games in 1998 and later joining the World Cup Circuit in 2004. However, it wasn’t until post 2010 Games that Ski Cross became globally known. I’d almost go as far as saying the Vancouver Olympics will be remembered thanks to Ski X.
And that was that – three weeks, three trips and time for a rest. Work over, it was time to head down the valley to the quaint resort of St Martin de Belleville, my home for the festive period.
And my new years resolution: well, to update this blog more often would be a start…